SLR Digital Cameras, which one?!

[martingold]

OK so, larger DOF = Smaller aperture, therefore a slower shutter speed and higher ISO is needed. Is that correct?

absolutely right di

the reason being the larger the aperture (the hole in the center of the lens) the larger the dots of light on the focus plane ( which is where the sensor is mounted in the camera) if you think about just one spot of light it is seen by the whole lens so that spot actually expands into a cone then is reduced the by the lens so it is an inverted cone the other side going to a point on the sensor. Some of these dots will be so small they will seem to be just points ( and be in very sharp focus) whereas other will be larger and called circles of confusion (which will seem blured)
look here there is a diagram of the light path which explains it far better than i can

[straycat]

Wow. I love the Canon EOS series, but I had no idea they were quite as tough as this (OK - so you can still label it as unproven rumor, rather than fact, but that should never get in the way of a good story)...

[Cruella]

Wow. I love the Canon EOS series, but I had no idea they were quite as tough as this (OK - so you can still label it as unproven rumor, rather than fact, but that should never get in the way of a good story)...

The has been added to the blog now.
!

[Bubble]

Your next lesson is on 'Depth of Field'

In very basic language, the depth of field, is how much of the photo is in focus.

If you have a very small/shallow DOF, most of the picture will be out of focus (blurred) and only the subject you've decided to focus on, will be sharp.

The first 3 photo's (I took this afternoon, using 'your' formula) are showing a very shallow DOF, as the objects are only roughly 4 inches apart, and yet, only one of them is in sharp focus at a time.

The other photo (I took a few weeks ago) has a longer DOF, as most of the picture is in focus, including the tree that's very close to me, in the foreground.

These effects are mainly achieved using 'Aperture priority' ("A' on a Nikon)

I'm trying to keep it 'simple'

I always find this confusing and the only way I remember this, is to simplify it like this....

For aLARGE depth of field: you need to use a small aperture (but forget that bit, its just to confuse us ), just remember it has a LARGE number

So, LARGE DOF =LARGE F/Stop/number,

Large number being something between F16 and F29 (and just to complicate matters more, this will depend on what lens your using, but I've only got one lens, so I'm no expert)

Secondly, to lengthen the DOF even more, move further away from your subject

And lastly, zooming 'out' will increase it further

Its the opposite for a Shallow (small) DOF

SMALL DOF, SMALL F/number (mine only goes down to F/4 )

Move closer

and Zoom right in!

OK so, larger DOF = Smaller aperture, therefore a slower shutter speed and higher ISO is needed. Is that correct?

There's a handy website that lets you easily calculate the effect of the focal length of your lens (how much you zoom in or out), and the aperture setting you are using, on the depth of field you will get.

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

In case anyone is wondering, zooming in = increasing the length of the lens, and zooming out = decreasing the focal length of the lens. Of course, years ago no one zoomed anywhere with their camera, all the lenses were fixed and they had to change lenses to change the focal length.

absolutely right di

the reason being the larger the aperture (the hole in the center of the lens) the larger the dots of light on the focus plane ( which is where the sensor is mounted in the camera) if you think about just one spot of light it is seen by the whole lens so that spot actually expands into a cone then is reduced the by the lens so it is an inverted cone the other side going to a point on the sensor. Some of these dots will be so small they will seem to be just points ( and be in very sharp focus) whereas other will be larger and called circles of confusion (which will seem blured)
look here there is a diagram of the light path which explains it far better than i can

Martingold will be pleased to see that it also calculates circle of confusion.

These effects are mainly achieved using 'Aperture priority' ("A' on a Nikon)

I can never remember what all the little letters mean on the settings dial; so I do the whole lot manually, everytime!

[martingold]

Martingold will be pleased to see that it also calculates circle of confusion.

good website buble

I can never remember what all the little letters mean on the settings dial; so I do the whole lot manually, everytime!

i shoot in all modes usually leaving it in av ( aperture value on a canon)
usually only using tv (time value) when shooting sport, full manual if in a studio, or full auto when i want a quick shot

[philsmove]

If any one has a spare £15K

Hasselblad have just announced the H4D-40 DSLR

I have decided against one, as its just a little too big, to fit in my camera bag

[Lory]

If any one has a spare £15K

Hasselblad have just announced the H4D-40 DSLR

I have decided against one, as its just a little too big, to fit in my camera bag

I bet there's a few silly people out there, with more money than sense, who'll buy this camera, assuming that they have a good camera... they'll take a good pic!

funnily enough, I was in 'Calumet' yesterday... OMG, what an intimidating place I was almost cringing, asking to try different lenses on my 9year year old D70

[philsmove]

I was in 'Calumet' yesterday... OMG, what an intimidating place:

however they do run some very good workshops

[Cruella]

Some of my latest attempts.

[Lory]

Some of my latest attempts.

These are fabulous Di!

I particularly love the the way the light catches the water, on the boating pics and you've got an amazing bokeh effect on the ducks!

What lens were you using?

I'm feeling a bit after my visit to Calumet yesterday, having being told that, basically, its a waste of time for me to invest in new lenses and for what I want to achieve, I need to upgrade my camera and 'THEN' buy all the lenses!
When I asked the guy what sort of money he was talking about, he casually said, I reckon 5K should get you started........


its not the sort of place where you go.... WHAT!?!

[Bubble]

Some of my latest attempts.

I do like that squirrel picture. Did you have to bribe it with some nuts?

its not the sort of place where you go.... WHAT!?!

I think I would have said WHAT!?! rather than WHAT!?!


If you don't mind doing all the settings manually, check to see if your DSLR is backwards compatible with old 35mm lenses. If you can live without auto focus and auto everything else then there are some great bargains to be had as there are simply soooooo many old 35mm lenses on the market. Many of them are probably better quality than the latest fully compatible lenses which often feel 'plasticy' and poorly constructed compared to the older products. Make sure to try them in the shop first though as the difference between 35mm film and the DSLR sensor means that the focal length is different. When I've got some money I'll buy a Pentax or Samsung DSLR, that way all the k-mount lenses from my 35mm Pentax SLR will fit. You just can't beat Pentax in terms of backwards compatibility.

[Lory]

If you don't mind doing all the settings manually, check to see if your DSLR is backwards compatible with old 35mm lenses.

My camera takes DX lenses, so auto focusing isn't an issue

I'd kind of allowed myself a budget of around £300-400 but left the store realising that, even if I got the best lens in the world, my camera's sensors aren't good enough to be able to take full advantage

The young 'wizkid' behind the counter made it quite clear, that what I really needed to achieve the results I've been after, is a full frame camera, where by using the same lenses, you actually get more in the frame, at the same distance (complicated huh)

Even though I was feeling intimidated (with my ridiculously out of date equipment) the guy was really quite sweet and let me try out a selection of lenses on 'MY' camera......... but then he brought out the big boys toys for me to have a go with and it was at that point, my bottom lip dropped

I WANT A D300

[Cruella]

What lens were you using?

I only have the lens that came with the camera a basic Canon 18mm - 55mm.
I get frustrated by the lack of sharp focus though because it has no IS. I was warned that photography can be VERY expensive, I've only had the camera for 2 months and I already want to get another lens!
I don't think I'll be visiting Calumet just yet though, I'm not very good at resisting temptation!

[philsmove]

I WANT A D300

and I want a D3s

Lory, have you looked at a D90s, same sensor as the D300 but half the price, OK it has a "plastic" body and only an 11 point focus, limited high speed sync, no wireless connection to Camera control Pro and slower fps but if you need all of that, then you probably need a D700 which will take DX and FX lenses

For under £400 you can get a secondhand Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G VR IF-ED* which would be fine on your D70. I have the 18-200mm on a D90s and am very pleased . For a fixed lens, I bough a second hand Nikon Micro Nikkor 55mm 55 mm f 2.8 3.5 AI Macro Lens for under £100

* beware this lens does suffer from "zoom creep" which is why i use the Macro lens sometimes

[Lory]

I've only had the camera for 2 months and I already want to get another lens!

The other night, a friend issued me with a warning. "don't get the 'lens buying bug', its a very slippery route with no return"
I had to laugh, as I've had the same lens that came with my camera for 9years!

and I want a D3s

Don't we all!

then you probably need a D700 which will take DX and FX lenses

I've just been looking at that. (although I don't know why I'm torturing myself really, as I've got much more important things to spend my money on at the moment.... but one likes to stay informed.. just incase a win fall should land on the doorstep! )

For under £400 you can get a secondhand Nikon AF-S DX NIKKOR 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G VR IF-ED* which would be fine on your D70. I have the 18-200mm on a D90s and am very pleased . For a fixed lens, I bough a second hand Nikon Micro Nikkor 55mm 55 mm f 2.8 3.5 AI Macro Lens for under £100

Before visiting Calumet, I was almost convinced I wanted a 50mm f1.4 but after trying it out on my camera, I wasn't how I 'thought' it'd be. The 35mm 1.8 was nearer to what I was after but the sales guy made sense when he said, in the long term, I'd be wasting my money.

So, I'm going to hold off for a while and have a little re-think!

[philsmove]

Before visiting Calumet, I was almost convinced I wanted a 50mm f1.4 but after trying it out on my camera, I wasn't how I 'thought' it'd be. The 35mm 1.8 was nearer to what I was after but the sales guy made sense when he said, in the long term, I'd be wasting my money.

To be honest,I think the sales man might be telling the truth, a 50mm f1.4 might be wasted on a D70
out of interest, what are you photographing that needs such a wide aperture lens

[Lory]

To be honest,I think the sales man might be telling the truth, a 50mm f1.4 might be wasted on a D70
out of interest, what are you photographing that needs such a wide aperture lens

I'm not a fan of using the flash, other than in direct sunlight (to eliminate dark shadows or to compensate against a strong backlight) Other than that, I hate the way it 'flattens' an image, shortens the DOF and looses all ambient atmosphere!
So the the wide aperture, was to maximise on the available light but after being used to an 18 - 70mm lens, I now realise how limiting having a fixed length of 50mm is (after my trials in the shop), I know i'd find having to adjust the distance I stand from the subject quite an issue and being that my camera isn't a 'full frame' it crop the image even more!

All the newer cameras, have better light sensors, so, the aperture wouldn't be such an issue!

Am I making any sense?

[philsmove]

Am I making any sense?

Yes Completely I used to use a D70 and upgrade to a D90 a year ago

the D90 is pretty good a low light, this was at ISO 3200 1/25 @ f 4.2 with 18- 200 zoom

at the risk of teaching granny to suck eggs if you are forced to use flash try bouncing it off something like a lastolite trigrip

[Lory]

Yes Completely

Phew!

I used to use a D70 and upgrade to a D90 a year ago

What's the reasons you upgraded and has the D90, met with your expectations?

I'm reticent to upgrade, unless the model is proven to be significantly better, in ALL ways (fussy?.... me? )

the D90 is pretty good a low light, this was at ISO 3200 1/25 @ f 4.2 with 18- 200 zoom

I like the the way none of the atmosphere is lost in this pic but as we know, having to use such a high ISO, we get a lot of graininess (personally having the option between a bit of grain and using the flash, I'd rather live with the grain )

But, I would hope that the higher spec models would cut down on this?

at the risk of teaching granny to suck eggs if you are forced to use flash try bouncing it off something like a lastolite trigrip

GRANNY!

Yes, I always try to use a light surface (wall/ceiling etc) if I HAVE to resort to flash and in fact, I do own an umbrella but its not exactly ideal, when you'd rather be capturing candid shots!

IMO reflectors and umbrellas etc, are more for a 'Studio' setup

[philsmove]

What's the reasons you upgraded and has the D90, met with your expectations?

Its was an impulse buy, at focus on imaging (£200 off retail) I loved the bigger LCD and the fact I can use live view with Camera Control. I recently borrowed my old D70 back, as a spare for a wedding and did not like it at all

The D90 has a lot more user friendly interfaces, if you want to use the custom options

nearly all my D70 shoots were in daylight ( ISO 200) and ended up on my previous company web site so image quality was not a big issue

Personally having the option between a bit of grain and using the flash, I'd rather live with the grain But, I would hope that the higher spec models would cut down on this?

I also personally prefer the atmosphere with available light, but most clients seem to prefer the sharper pictures from flash

IMO reflectors and umbrellas etc, are more for a 'Studio' setup

the trigrip does need an assistant but it will allow you get an available light effect, when the available light isn't very available

As to whether a D700 is going to much better than a D90 I think we need Feeling Pink to answer that