SLR Digital Cameras, which one?!

[philsmove]

I have just orderd a brand new Nikon AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8 ED just £16.29



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[Lory]

I have just orderd a brand new Nikon AF-S 24-70mm f/2.8 ED just £16.29



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I couldn't see the info, as its now no longer available but did you 'really' get one for that price?

And if you did, what's the verdict?

[philsmove]

I couldn't see the info,

not sure why, link works for me
its on its way from Hong Kong

[Lory]

not sure why, link works for me
its on its way from Hong Kong

Ah ha, nice one!

although, not quite as nice as the real thing

[Lynn]

Just looked through this yet thread again and a lot of things making more sense now! Thanks to all who have been sharing tips.

I'm enjoying my Sony HX5, though aware of its limitations and planning on 'moving up' to a bigger camera next year - when I can afford it and have learnt more about photography. (And when I've decided on whether I'm going to go the Nikon or Canon route...!)

Meanwhile I am going to learn as much as I can with what I have - and one of the next things I want to try working on is post processing. Someone very kindly spent 3 hours taking me through basics of Photoshop yesterday, showing me how he created some of his images, and working on some of mine.

I'm thinking of getting Photoshop Elements, as its a lot cheaper - (I think I could get Photoshop CS5 student and teacher edition but budget is tight at the minute). Would PSE be adequate for my needs? And can I use a plug in like Topaz Adjust with it?

[philsmove]

I'm thinking of getting Photoshop Elements, as its a lot cheaper - (I think I could get Photoshop CS5 student and teacher edition but budget is tight at the minute). Would PSE be adequate for my needs? And can I use a plug in like Topaz Adjust with it?

Elements is very good all in one program
According to the Topaz web site its is compatible with Elements

Adobe and Topaz products can be download for a free trail, so you can try before you buy

[Lynn]

Elements is very good all in one program
According to the Topaz web site its is compatible with Elements

Adobe and Topaz products can be download for a free trail, so you can try before you buy

Thanks, I think I'll get Elements - it should have enough for me to learn how to do basic PP.

[Lynn]

Got a book on 'Understanding Exposure' and started reading it yesterday. Now trying shooting in M. So I set ISO (at lowest yesterday as bright) then aperture, then adjust shutter speed til EV reads 0? Is that right?

If a high contrast shot I can light meter on the bright areas to avoid blown highlights?

Was doing that, then shooting some flowers with wider aperture - lower f/., to get narrower DOF. Only have two aperture settings, so limited on all that with this camera, but still lots to learn before I get something bigger.

So I can stop down aperture (higher f/.) in bright sunshine, or I can open it up and increase shutter speed - gives same exposure but shift in DOF? Is that right?

I know once I get my head round this it will become second nature, just a bit confusing at the moment.

[philsmove]

. Only have two aperture settings,.

Hi Lynn, can you expain ???

[Lynn]

Hi Lynn, can you expain ???

I only have a choice of wide or narrow - f/3.5 or f/8 - both lower and higher increase as I zoom - so at full zoom f/5.5 or f/13. Does that make sense? Still struggling to understand it all.

And that means I can't get very wide, is that right?

I know I need to get to grips with all this before I get a DSLR and even begin to understand about lenses...

[philsmove]

I only have a choice of wide or narrow - f/3.5 or f/8 - both lower and higher increase as I zoom - so at full zoom f/5.5 or f/13. Does that make sense? Still struggling to understand it all.

And that means I can't get very wide, is that right?

I know I need to get to grips with all this before I get a DSLR and even begin to understand about lenses...

yes

f5.5 at full zoom will give you least DOF
F8 at wide angel will give you the greatest DOF

depending on which lens(s) you buy , you will have a much greater range of options with a DSLR

f2.8 on a 200mm telephone lens ( often you for portraiture) will give you very little DOF, maybe only a few inches

f 22 with 10mm wide angel ( often used in landscapes )will give you a DOF from a few inches to infinity

[philsmove]

I know once I get my head round this it will become second nature, just a bit confusing at the moment.

With a DSLR I tend to work with aperture priority (A) this means I can control the DOF and the camera will select the shutter speed , if the shutter speed is too low and there is a risk of camera shake, I increase the ISO

With my snappy happy compact camera I set it to fully automatic

That said, the pictures on face book, of the red arrows, were with P shutter priority ( 1/8000)

[Lynn]

yes f5.5 at full zoom will give you least DOF
F8 at wide angel will give you the greatest DOF

Yes I was aiming for shallow DOF at zoom for a flower photograph. I'm just starting learn how to get different DOF.

With a DSLR I tend to work with aperture priority (A) this means I can control the DOF and the camera will select the shutter speed , if the shutter speed is too low and there is a risk of camera shake, I increase the ISO

With my snappy happy compact camera I set it to fully automatic

That said, the pictures on face book, of the red arrows, were with P shutter priority ( 1/8000)

No A mode on my P&S - but I do have P and M, and am trying to use them more often so I learn. I've been using P a fair bit, yesterday I started trying M.

Your Red Arrows shot is (unsurprisingly) far superior to my recent attempts!

[Lory]

Got a book on 'Understanding Exposure' and started reading it yesterday. Now trying shooting in M. So I set ISO (at lowest yesterday as bright) then aperture, then adjust shutter speed til EV reads 0? Is that right?

Hi Lynn, do you have a 'histogram' on your camera?
This is a visual representation, in a graph form, of the 'shadows and highlights'.

If you do, it can be a useful aid when learning.

Generally speaking, the perfect graph will have a peak in the middle and no gaps at the edges. If there's a flat area on the right, this means your picture will have blown highlights and if there's a flat area on the left, your picture is under exposed. (although you might 'choose' to do either of the above, for effect)

If you have what's called a 'live histogram' you'll be able to see how each change you make effects the exposure. I personally learnt a lot from this.

So I can stop down aperture (higher f/.) in bright sunshine, or I can open it up and increase shutter speed - gives same exposure but shift in DOF? Is that right?

Correct! Although, the difficulty comes, when you want to take a picture with a longer exposure and a shallow DOF. This is when an ND filter (Neutral Density) comes in handy. Its a bit like putting a pair of sunglasses on the camera... cutting out the light, allowing you to keep the aperture wide open, and a lower shutter speed, without the photo being over exposed

I know once I get my head round this it will become second nature,

I'm still waiting for the moment I don't have to think BUT I can usually work out what I need to do, IF I get the time. But I pften end up like this

[Lynn]

Hi Lynn, do you have a 'histogram' on your camera?
This is a visual representation, in a graph form, of the 'shadows and highlights'.

If you do, it can be a useful aid when learning.

Generally speaking, the perfect graph will have a peak in the middle and no gaps at the edges. If there's a flat area on the right, this means your picture will have blown highlights and if there's a flat area on the left, your picture is under exposed. (although you might 'choose' to do either of the above, for effect)

If you have what's called a 'live histogram' you'll be able to see how each change you make effects the exposure. I personally learnt a lot from this.

I do yes, and am just starting to learn how to use it - spent some time on Sunday changing settings and watching the histogram change. I've looked it but not really been using it, so will start to do that!

Correct! Although, the difficulty comes, when you want to take a picture with a longer exposure and a shallow DOF. This is when an ND filter (Neutral Density) comes in handy. Its a bit like putting a pair of sunglasses on the camera... cutting out the light, allowing you to keep the aperture wide open, and a lower shutter speed, without the photo being over exposed

Thanks! I'm still just working with my P&S, so I'm limited in being able to do stuff like that - but I intend to stretch this little cam as much as I can because despite limited control, I'm still learning a lot.

I'm still waiting for the moment I don't have to think BUT I can usually work out what I need to do, IF I get the time. But I pften end up like this

I know that feeling! But its utterly fascinating and I'm absolutely loving it!

Thanks for the advice and your earlier posts on this thread - helpful stuff.

[philsmove]

I'm still waiting for the moment I don't have to think BUT I can usually work out what I need to do, IF I get the time. But I pften end up like this

I think of this way. The MORE you pay for a lens (~£7,000 for f2.8 : 400mm) the LESS DOF you get, no dont have one

[philsmove]

New DSLR and 3 New Lenses from Nikon

Nikon D3100 and Nikkor 85mm, 24-120mm, 28-300mm, 55-300mm lenses

Still no sign of a replacement for D90 or the D700

[philsmove]

You might want to hang on a bit longer. There are rumours that Nikon will release a D700s in the next couple of weeks that will have dual card slots (good for card failure).

Looks like the replacement is coming soon and will be called the D7000

[Lory]

Canon's about to release a new one too, the 60D.

No official release date yet, as far as I can see

But, I hope it gets crap reviews and its so expensive that it wouldn't have been an option for me anyway!

[philsmove]

Canon's about to release a new one too, the 60D.

Yerr tis